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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.